Riding the Adolescent Wave

2010 Mavericks surfing competition. The image ...

2010 Mavericks surfing competition.

Spring is a time for new beginnings, and for endings.

This year D turned 15 and has hit her full adolescent stride.  Always independant, living in a city whcih gives her full access to a metro system, taxis, friends who live in far corners of the city, and an endless list of weird and wonderful things to do -she has taken it all by storm.  If she were a surfer she would be up at the crest of a large wave, sunshine glinting off the water and her hair, admiring the beautiful view below her. Sometimes finding the balance between school and sports and social life is hard, but she faces that challenge head on.

S2 is 17, almost 18, and finishing high school.  He has finished the college application process and chosen a school which I, but more importantly he, believes is a good match.  He has also decided to take a gap year and stay in Shanghai with us so he can study Manderin for another year at a local university.  Even with all of this decided he is still suffering from that most awful of adolescent traumas – senioritis mixed with angst. The angst is four fold.  First is the feeling of leaving a school system that has consumed their entire lives.  Each year brought a new grade and new classes but the sameness of the bus schedule, lunch with friends, after school activities, then home to do homework,  was incredibly comforting.  The second part stems from that deep seeded feeling that most, I think, teenagers have because they believe that the major they pick for college will determine the professional direction of their entire lives with no possibility of change.  I am the model of change and reinvention for careers and have tried to point this out, but I am the mom – what do I know??  The third layer on top of all this angst is the sense of belonging or not belonging.  He came to China just for his last year of high school, leaving all of his friends back in the north east.  He didn’t think he would mind graduating from a different school, but as the days approach I think he does feel he is missing out on a bonding experience with those kids.  (His totally amazing band leader from the USA has agreed to let S2 play in the school band at graduation.  S2 is really excited about being part of the day).  The last, and perhaps biggest hurdle, is the emotional house of mirrors he seems to live in due to Aspergers.  He has a great deal of trouble self identifying emotions and the situations that bring them on.  He is generally not comfortable with strong emotions of any kind.  It is almost like he wants to crawl out of his skin when he feels very happy or sad.  And afterwords he often cannot express or identify what made him happy, sad, angry etc.  Usually kids like being happy and look back on the experiences of the day and make a mental note somewhere in their psyche that X = happy therefore repeat X and Y = sad therefore do not repeat Y.  S2 has not mastered this concept, but he is working very hard to.  In the mean time he rides his own surfing wave.  On his ride he seems to ride many tall waves that come in quick succession.  One moment he is at the crest enjoying the sunshine and the next he is in the trough feeling the chill of the shadow over him which comes from the next looming wave.  He knows if he can climb back up to the top of the wave it will be warm and sunny, but it’s a hell of a lot of work to do that and he doesn’t always have the mental or physical energy to get there on his own.  Sometimes he seems to have his surfboard clipped by the crashing wave, sending him tumbling headlong into the dark water and desperately trying to figure out which way is up before he runs out of air. Even with all of this he tries and tries again.  I hope he knows how proud I am of him.

S1 is riding his surf board with grace and agility.  He is becoming his own man.  He has just finished his third year at college and will be starting an internship this summer to help him clarify what he wants to do when he graduates.  He has a great girlfriend and they seem very supportive of each other.  He still flounders on his board sometimes and then my instinct is to go running and save him, as any good lifeguard would do.  This can be – ok, often is- a source of friction between us.  For S1 I need to learn to lay back and wait to be called.

My husband and I are the lifeguards at this wild beach.  We have our own long boards which we desperately paddle out into the rough waters to pull, push, prod – whatever it takes- in order to bring them into shore safely.  But I am getting old for surfing.  My body struggles to pop up to standing and find a sense of balance.  I struggle with my own board and yet would give my life to save their lives.  Most of the time they seem absolutely oblivious to the fact that there are other people (parents, teachers, family, friends) running to them, circling them with life rings and other safety nets.  They may grab one and be towed safely to shore, but in words and attitude seem to believe they swam there themselves.  But every once in a while they look up and around and not only see but acknowledge the other people around them.  I am determined to stand vigil on this beach, watching the wild waves roll in and my beautiful children call ‘look mom, no hands!!’.

Happy Mother’s Day to all of you standing on your  beach!

Time Flies

I have just finished having a string of wonderful guests and am looking forward to S1 and his  girlfriend coming to visit soon.  We will all celebrate S2′s high school graduation.  Then I will fly back to the USA to spend some glorious weeks with family and friends.  This will mark the halfway point of my sojourn in Shanghai.  I can’t believe how quickly it has gone.

After a cold and dreary winter my best friend came to visit me!  We have been planning it for so long (I think first discussions, over tea and cookies, happened before I even had plane tickets to come here in the first place!).   Our time together was amazing.

Saying her flight here was delayed is an understatement.  She took off from a major US east coast airport only to hear the captain announce, after some time in the air, that all but two bathrooms had failed and they had to return to the and would need to change planes.  So after leaving home at 6:30am she finally took off at about 5:30pm for the 14 hour flight to Shanghai.  Even after all that she was ready to go on every crazy adventure I had planned.  On our first day out, among other things, we wandered through ‘old town’ which is partly truly old and partly built/rebuilt to look old.  But none the less it is quite nice and busteling with a frenetic mix of tourist traps, local businesses, and the damp alleys leading to quiet by-ways taken by the Shanghainese and tourists who are lost or …..well, lost.  But I have wandered these streets many times and have found the noodle man dependably parked on the corner.  His three wheeled bike cart carries his entire livelihood.  His propane cooker, all his prepped vegetables, noodles, sauce, giant beach umbrella, and tarp to block the wind.  The menu choice involves spicy or not spicy.  Other than that you get a generous portion of noodles stir fried with a mix of fresh vegetables.  The dining room is two preschool sized tables with a few foot stools to serve as chairs.  We ordered our noodles with a request of ‘a little spicy’ and were directed to sit.  A few minutes later we had a delicious lunch under a tarp.  Bellies full we headed to the ferry and enjoyed our sunny ride across the Huangpu River.  On the other side we went up the Pearl Tower and took in the view of the city as the sun set and the city lit up.  We had been walking all day and had seen many things.  We were tired but our ticket in the Pearl included a museum tour on the ground floor.  I had heard it was good and we wanted to get our moneys worth so we decided to take a look.  We wandered the halls and looked at the displays.  They were OK, but not especially wonderful and we were tired.  We decided to find the way out.  Alas, the museum was a one way hall that meandered in a most frustrating way.  We were getting punchy and felt like we were trapped in Dante’s 9 circles of hell.  The wax figures stared at us unblinkingly.  The miniature dioramas started to seem ridiculous.  We were giggling like school girls. Finally, stumbling out of the museum we took the metro home and collapsed.  It was so wonderful to see the city through her eyes.

Her last night here another dear friend, who is also one of my husband’s co-workers, came to town.  All four of us went out to dinner at a great restaurant called M on the Bund.  The food was great, the view spectacular, and the company unbeatable.  After dinner we strolled out on the Bund river walk and enjoyed the cool evening watching the ships float by.  The week ended too quickly.

The next day my husband’s parents arrived.  They had been touring China for 12 days and had seen Beijing, Xian, Wuhan, Changqing, the Three Gorges, the Yangzi River.  They throughly enjoyed their tour but it was time for a rest and a quiet visit.  Shifting gears I continued as tour guide.  This time we took gentle walks through the local park, Century Park.  We went out to the kids’ school and they had a chance to look around there.  We went to a small water town that lies within the city limits called Qibao.  The town holds a collection of small tourist sites but largely still remains a town where people live and work and go to school.  This was a real treat since they had had the ‘tourist’ view of China.  Qibao gave them a chance to see China outside of the regular tourist beat or expat bubble.  Another highlight was taking them to one of my favorite spots, Lu Xun Park, about which I have written before.

Alas, another busy week came to an end.  And here we are preparing for one son’s visit and another’s graduation.  As the summer heat starts to roll in I can feel the pull back to the east coast of another continent.  See you all soon!! :D

Spring at Lu Xun Park

The kiddie boat ride at Lu Xun park.

 

A handsome man from the neighborhood behind the park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Getting There:  Lu Xun park is located at 146 East Jiangwan Rd. (146 jiang wan Lu)  near the Hongkou Stadium.  Getting there is very easy by metro.  Take line 8 to the Hongkou Stadium station and get out at exit 1.  At the sidewalk turn left (so the stadium is on your left) and walk about 200 yards to the park entrance.  There is no entrance fee.

 

The park was built in 1896 as a shooting field.  In 1905 they added an amusement park area (kiddy rides).  The famous Chinese writer, Lu Xun, was placed in a mausoleum on the park grounds and the park is now dedicated to him.

Cherry blossoms in the mid-day sun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

King of the mahjong table.

serious debate.

I will never understand why they wear their PJ's out in public like it's a regular outfit.

 

My Day:

The park is alive with families taking advantage of the shady spots, bounce castle, and small electric boat rides.  The older generation prefers the tables set up for mahjong or card games. Park benches often become host to intense debates. Just a stroll along the shady lanes of the park is a great way to spend the day, too.

In between are open areas where accordion players entertain, opera singers practice.  Line dancers get their groove on only yards from the traditionally dressed folk dancers.  Another turn down a different path finds the calligraphy masters practicing on the pavement with buckets of water and long brushes.  They will explain the history of each character to any interested onlooker.  Today was a sunny sunday and the cherry blossoms are in full bloom.  The park was hopping.

The folk dancers at Lu Xun.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This little girl wanted to dance too :)

The cherry blossoms were beautiful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The line dancers getting their groove on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Everyone in my family had agreed that on such a beautiful day we should go for a walk in the park.  On arriving we were greeted with the onslaught of sights, sounds, smells and sheer mass of people, that China is so well known for – and so often leads my son into sensory overload.  I just wanted to have a walk in the park, so to speak.  My ‘good mom’ self seemed to have been left behind at first and I had this fantasy of a perfectly relaxing day that didn’t involve negotiating with teenagers or dealing with emotional crisis.  Unfortunately that is exactly what parenting is about.  I felt frustrated by his sullenness.

To give you an idea of his mood let me tell you a little of his running commentary on the park.  On walking in and seeing the small electric boats floating on the lake among the plastic fish he said “oh look, how nice that they let the children drive the nuclear  subs among the  water mines…how lovely.”  This was said with a completely deadpan face and tone of voice.  I think he meant to be cynical,  but when I really looked at the boat and plastic fish his description was right on the mark.  So I started to laugh and tell him it was a good joke.  But he didn’t mean it as a joke, he meant it as a deep, thoughtful commentary on society.  So he really didn’t appreciate me finding humor in his comment.  Ahhhh,  deep breaths……..and move on to another area of the park where, hopefully, we can find more common ground.

At home my kids complain that they are not learning practical things in their Chinese class.  I suggested that a day like this would be the perfect opportunity to practice and get to know some locals.  S2 had a sour expression on his face and just stared at the ground as we walked along.  I was getting snippy and this didn’t help the situation.  Finally he said to me ‘I just feel overloaded, please just let me walk along.’  I took another deep breath.  I felt very guilty about my snippiness and appologized.  Once we had reached this truce the tension level dropped and we walked along and peacefully enjoyed the scenery.

No mahjong table? No problem, a bench works just fine!

practicing martial arts at Lu Xun park.

a stroll with a friend and some good conversation at Lu Xun.

 

 

 

This bud has a couple of days before it blooms.

The artist inscribing D's fan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Along the path we found a man hand painting fans.  He decorated one side with scenes from the park and wrote poems on the other side.  They were marked with his ‘chop’ which is a Chinese person’s official signature.  He saved the two end panels of the fan and inscribed them for the purchaser.  D fell in love with one that had red cherry blossoms on it.  The artist wrote her Chinese name on the back and wrote the date and place so she would always remember where she got the beautiful fan.

A game of cards in the spring sunshine at Lu Xun.

 

 

 

 

The artist at work at Lu

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The furthest edges (left and right) are where the artist enscribed D's name and the date and place where they met.

Zhu Lao Shi practicing calligraphy before the crowd descended.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The cherry blossoms on D's fan.

 

 

Turning a bend we came upon one of the calligraphy teachers writing on the road.  I stopped to take some pictures and he asked me where we were from.  From there the conversation blossomed and we started to attract a crowd.  I introduced my kids and explained that S2 was planning on going to a local college next year to further his studies in Chinese language and calligraphy.  The teacher, it turns out, is an award winning calligrapher and teacher at the college S2 is planning on attending.  He and S2 traded phone numbers.  It was very exciting and the crowd really started to grow.  Even I felt crowded in.  Lao Gong (LG for short and meaning husband) was off to one side and started to collect his own set of groupies.  All of this became too much for S2.  He was very polite and excused himself to go and sit on a stone wall.  I was proud of him.  D and I continued to chat with the teacher and the others for about 10 minutes.  Finally I felt we had reached the limit of my Chinese and it was time to move on in the park.  I also wanted to find S2 and make sure he was ok.  When I extracted myself from the crowd I found S2 sitting on the stone wall chatting with a young Chinese man who wanted to practice his English.  S2 said a polite farewell and we moved on before the crowd could follow us.  S2 actually seemed cheered up.  He said his favorite part of the conversation with his new friend was that the man told him he is ‘a sailor….he sells things’  LOL.

I am somewhere in the middle of this crowd explaining why we came to live in Shanghai.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grandfather taking his granddaughter for a spring walk in the park.

 

 

After a day of sunshine we left through the back of the park.  This leads into a series of small streets and little alleys.  One of my favorite dumpling stands is back here.  The walk to get the dumplings provides an eyeful too.  There is a barber who has set up shop in two parking spaces.

 

School children getting an after school snack on the way home in the afternoon.

The outdoor barber shop.

 

 

Today he was giving a customer a close shave while a fellow barber cut another customers hair.

 

 

Women work together in supper preparation tasks.  The laundry flys like colorful flags from the power lines.  The street food vendors and vegetable carts line the roads.  This is the China I have grown to truly love.

 

 

 

 

getting a close shave at the outdoor barber.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our dumplings were fresh and hot and wonderfully juicy.  After a long day out they hit the spot.  The chef kept coming out to watch us eat, making sure we knew the finer points of soup dumplings.  We assured him they were very delicious!

At the end of the day we exited the subway (metro) station near our apartment and were greeted with a lovely row of white cherry blossom trees catching the afternoon sun.

fishing in the small lake at Lu Xun park.

Badminton is very popular with people of all ages.

These ladies were preparing vegetables together.

The streetscape near the dumpling shop.

The street scape at the dumpling shop.

After a long, busy day the snack vendor takes a break.

The cherry blossom trees near our apartment.

These girls were playing with some water next to the vegetable cart.

This handsome man kindly agreed to have his picture taken.

Look closely and you can see the woman getting her laundry down as the bikes and scooters whizz by.

 

 

 


Small World: Friendships

Blogging has brought me a whole new array of friends whom I really enjoy communicating with.  Some are also bloggers and some are readers perusing the ‘net.  I have met gardeners, parents, photographers, writers, adventurers….We live in an amazing world with so many creative and kind people.

Recently I made a new friend through such a strange set of circumstances that I feel I must share it with you.  It’s a story of less than six degrees of separation across two continents that still boggles my mind.

The time line is not completely straight so bare with me.

Just before leaving for China I visited a new and wonderful yarn shop in a nearby town in the Hudson Valley.  As a member of Ravelry, an online community of knitters, crocheters and other fiber artists,  I went to the web site and ‘Liked’ the yarn store.  Ravelry is very similar to Facebook where you can set up a profile with a picture and some basic information about yourself.  So when I ‘liked’ the store my info showed up on their page in a similar way to friends list on FB.  That was it and I basically forgot I had done it until a little over a month ago.

That was when the comment arrived on my blog.  Jeanette wrote and said she had found my blog because of my ‘like’ on ravelry and the fact that my profile included a Chinese flag.  Jeanette had also ‘liked’ the store and followed my information to my blog because, as she told me in her comment and following emails,  she and her husband were coming to Shanghai to visit.  She wanted to get some idea of what to expect.

Being a friendly sort of person I asked what was bringing them here.  She replied that her husband, Jim, was lecturing at a local school.  The school she mentioned was the one my children attended but there are two campuses about an hour and a half apart in the city.  So I asked which campus he would be coming to.  She told me he would be at both.  I told her my kids go to that school and wondered what her husband would be lecturing about.

We had moved from the ‘comments’ section of my blog to private email at this point and either she used her own email in the beginning and switched to using her husband’s account, or she used his all along and I was just a dunce and didn’t notice.  But anyway, about four or five emails in to our conversation I noticed the name on his email account and realized that her husband had been pen pals with S2 when S2 was in 5th grade.  S2′s school had a wonderful program where the kids could pick people who lived in the community and had jobs that the kids aspired to.  S2 and Jeanette’s husband Jim wrote several times and met at the grand finale of the project at a special breakfast that the school held for the kids and their pen pals.  The postcards and other letters that S2 received were and are treasured items.  So much so that one of the post cards had come with us to Shanghai!

The historic Bund as seen from the Pudong side of the river.

I am much better at remembering faces than names and I wondered if I had ever met Jeanette around town.  I decided to employ the web in the way that seems to be increasingly popular – stalking people.  Not really stalking, just casual following really   :P    I googled Jim’s name because I knew there would be pictures of him and I hoped to find something from an article with a caption of ‘here is Jim and his lovely wife Jeanette’ so I could run through my brain’s file folders of faces and check to see if we had crossed paths before.  I did find some pictures and was trying to decide if we had met before when I was distracted by a list of Youtube videos that Jim had posted.  One was called ‘first calf at the fair’.  Our county has one of the biggest agricultural fairs in New York State and it is on our list of things we must do every August.    I was intrigued by the video and clicked.  It is a sweet little movie showing a variety of vignettes from around the fair.  One of the clips is of the main intersection, just below the 4H barns and heading toward the midway. This path is always crowded and is lined with every conceivable kind of food booth.  I was watching and feeling wistfully nostalgic about my beloved fair when my eyes grew wide with amazement.  Coming up the path, toward the camera were my husband and S2!  I couldn’t believe it.  This was the day before we left for China.  I knew exactly the time and date because we had booked our tickets in order to fit in one last fair day before we moved.  I am sure Jim did not recognize my son since a 10 year old and a seventeen year old look quite a bit different.  And Jim never met my husband.  So the choice of clip was just by chance, or karmic sight of hand.

mama and her piglets at the fair, 2011

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the giant sand barn under construction at the fair.

I wrote to Jeanette and confessed my stalkerish ways and told her about the crazy coincidence of Jim being S2′s pen pal and then S2 and my husband being in Jim’s video.  She was very gracious and didn’t think I was stalkerish at all.  ”Jim puts those videos up for everyone to look at!”  She told me.  She also told me that Jim only did the pen pal program for four years so S2 is one of four kids in the whole world who could have this special connection.

After all these coincidences we decided we had to meet when I they came to Shanghai.

So the time has come, and almost gone, for them to be here.  Their schedule was very hectic and we only got to meet up one night but it was really nice.  They brought the clear Hudson Valley air with them (it had been cold and rainy every day -all winter- until they arrived) and we had a lovely stroll along the Huangpu river where Jim stopped to paint the view of the historic buildings across the way.  The air was cool enough to warrant a hat and light gloves but you could smell the warm earth and knew  spring was coming.  We all went out for a dinner of traditional Shanghainese soup dumplings known as xiao long bao.  Jim and Jeanette, both extremely talented artists, shared their travelogue sketch books with us and S2 got to show Jim some digital pictures of some of the artwork he has done here in Shanghai.  They talked technique a little and then we  settled into a warm and wonderful dinner with lots of friendly conversation.

Jim painting by the Huangpu River.

So who is this mystery man that has crisscrossed through our lives?  His name is James Gurney, artist, author of Dinotopia and the great blog GurneyJourney.  We are very happy to call Jim and Jeanette friends and look forward to seeing them in the Hudson Valley or back in Shanghai :)

I will be forever grateful to Jeanette who reached out and made that first comment on my blog which brought us all together again many years and many thousands of miles away!

PS. my regular readers will know that I work hard not to reveal personal information about people in the blog without their express permission.  I did check with Jim and Jeanette and they both agreed to have their true names used here.

Sunshine!

Image  I was given the Sunshine Award for my Blog!

I have met some amazing people through my blog and one of them nominated me for the sunshine award!  Thank you Mona!!  Mona takes amazing pictures and you should check out her blog, Ramblings, at MonaHoward.com.  Mona takes pictures that reflect her life and find incredible beauty in the small, unexpected moments.

The award has some guidelines to be followed.

1.  Include the logo in a post on your blog.

2.  Answer 10 questions about yourself.

3. Nominate 10-12 marvelous bloggers.

4. Let your nominees knows about their award by linking them to the Sunshine Award in their comments sections.

5. Share the love and link the person who nominated you!

 

10 Questions for the Sunshine Award….

1. Favorite Color:  Twilight blue – the deep cornflower blue of the summer sky just before sunset.

2. Favorite Animal:  My dog, Pete!

3. Favorite Number: 17.  I don’t know why, it just is.

4. Favorite Drink: All kinds of tea, and a good glass of wine on a special evening.

5. Facebook or Twitter:  FB. I am totally twignorant :)

6. Your Passion:  My family, and travel – learning about the world through food and culture.

7. Favorite Pattern:  The Escher birds print

8. Giving or Receiving: Giving!

9. Favorite Day: Any day with sunshine.

10. Favorite Flower: a tie between lilies and a field of queen anne’s lace.

The Following bloggers have brought sunshine to my life. Please take a minute and check out their work!

spectrummymummy.com   A mother of special needs children living far from her home country. She eloquently describes the challenges of parenting with love and joy.

Laura Lee Burch  One of the most amazing artists I have come across.  She felts and does costume design.

Mills Cross Musings  I love the sweet simplicity I find here.  It keeps me connected with my lovely Hudson Valley.

Bucket List Publications  This is the modern age of arm chair travelogue.  If you ever dreamed of trying it or going there, they have done it or are planning it :)

Nancy  The best teacher (and teacher’s blog) anyone could hope to find.  Keep up the great work!

James Gurney  An artist with great technical skill and the ability to transfer the magic of a childhood vision onto a page and have you believe it all over again. (Dinotopia author and illustrator)

Baker Bettie  If cookies are your passion this is the blog for you!

Nitty Gritty Dirt Man  He is the gardener we all wish we were (or were at least neighbors with).  Great advice and beautiful pictures.

Deidra Alexander  Creative writing and inspiration for all you aspiring writers.  Keep up the great work.

 

Spring in Shanghai (pictures)

Spring is coming to Shanghai.  Rain, rain, and more rain.  But along with it have come flowers, birds, and early morning sun.  Ahhhhhh…..

 

Wukan: Political Freedom – China style

For those of you who missed this recent article I am reposting it below.  It is big news here in underground whispers and discussions but not in, as far as I can tell, major newspapers or TV broadcasts.  I do think this is how China will progress.  Not like the Arab springs with major and fairly sudden policy shifts.  But more gradual, ground up approach.

In courageous Chinese village, a growing thirst for democracy 

Residents of Wukan have hope for first real election

By Calum MacLeod USA TODAY

WUKAN, China — On a temple stage honoring a Taoist immortal, under a triple-tiered roof topped by dragons, Lin Zuluan made his modest bid for office.

“I’m an old guy, without much ability, but I do have a heart that keeps close to the villagers,” said Lin, 67, to the applause of hun­dreds of onlookers Wednesday.

They know he also has the courage to defy corrupt officials and hundreds of armed police after a violent standoff over land grabs, China’s leading cause of social unrest. The unusual victo­ries won by Lin and other protest leaders have turned Wukan, a coastal village in south China’s Guangdong province, into an un­likely beacon of democracy in this one-party state.

For two months, villagers have taken part in a remarkably free electoral process that culminates today with a poll for a new village committee. China’s Communist Party elites select the country’s top leaders but allow villagers to elect councils with power over local issues, such as village fi­nances and land use. Since they began in the 1980s, such elec­tions have often proved more symbolic than competitive, and are heavily influenced by upper­level party members.

Even so, villagers here believe something different is happening in their election.

“The banner called this our vil­lage’s fifth election, but this is the first real one, as the committee just elected itself in the past,” said electrician Zhu Zhonggui, 45, after stump speeches from Lin and 21 other hopefuls. “They were corrupt and not democratic. I have genuine hope now. It’s a new start for Wukan.” Analysts agree that this widely watched village may herald a new start for the country also.

“Wukan’s problems are com­mon in Chinese villages, but the way the Guangdong government tried to solve them this time is unusual,” said Li Jingpeng, a Pek­ing University expert on civil so­ciety.

For 10 days in December, the 13,000 people of Wukan were bracing behind barricades to keep out a Communist govern­ment that usually handles such challenges with brute force. The people had chased out all govern­ment representatives from the town after the officials had sold farmland to developers.

Villagers chose their own rep­resentatives, but security agents abducted four of them. Then the authorities backed down, choos­ing compromise instead.

“That’s why the ‘Wukan inci­dent’ is significant,” Li Jingpeng said.

Throughout China’s country­side, where half of its 1.3 billion people live, the authorities’ heavy hand usually stamps out dissent in the name of “maintaining sta­bility.” Just 3 miles north of Wu­kan, in Longguan village, people fear that may still happen.

“People are scared here, as they worry they will be punished for petitioning about our lost land,” said Chen Hanqiu, 43, a rice farm­er. “We must learn from Wukan. They were all brave and stood up to pursue justice and fairness.” That struggle cost the life of Xue Jinbo, whose death in police custody on Dec. 11 galvanized the Wukan protests.

“He always said, ‘If you do something, go out in front and do the best you can, don’t stand at the back,’ ” said his daughter Xue Jianwan, 21, a teacher who defied official pressure and stood for election Wednesday.

Wukan sends an urgent mes­sage to the rest of China about the need for smarter social manage­ment, said Yu Gao, China pro­gram director for Landesa, a Seat­tle-based group focused on land rights for the poor. “There are many, many other Wukans which are burning in silence, but at some point they will burst.” Private land ownership does not exist, but the state leases use rights to farmers and others. A Landesa survey released in Feb­ruary found 43% of villagers had land taken for non-agricultural purposes since the late 1990s, and 18% were forceful evictions. When land grabs occur they can cause major disturbances. Of Chi­na’s 180,000 “mass incidents” in 2010, 65% involved land confisca­tions, Yu said.

Wukan now buzzes with dis­cussions about electoral proce­dure. Hong Ruichao, 28, came home to Wukan in September to get married and planned to re­turn to his small trading business in Shenzhen city. Instead, he was swept up in the protests.

“I must stay here and fight for our rights,” said Hong, who cam­paigned for a slot on the village committee and plans to run the village’s first library. His sister is also running.

“I don’t mind if I receive no votes, but to get real democracy, I need to participate,” said Hong Ruiqing, 35.

Fisherman Wu Seqi, 48, is proud of Wukan’s boldness. But real success requires that villag­ers get their land-use rights or at least fair compensation.

“Unless the upper levels of government have free elections like us, how can they stop corrup­tion and improve our situation?” he asked.

China’s leaders aren’t ready to experiment in elections above the village level, said He Baogang, an expert on Chinese elections at Deakin University in Australia. However, Wukan “shows people are thirsty for the waters of de­mocracy,” he said.

China’s size and complexity preclude swift change, said aca­demic Li Jingpeng. “We have tak­en 30 years to do economic re­form. We will take at least 30 years to conduct some political reforms and achieve a modern, democratic system,” he said.

Contributing: Sunny Yang

Spring has Sprung, The Grass has Riz….

When I was little my grandfather used to recite a silly poem to me every spring:

Spring has sprung,

The grass has riz,

I wonder where the birdies is!

Every year we would giggle like it was the first time we had thought of it. This year I find myself looking at the world the way I did as a child. Every day is a new wonder. What will the weather be? I don’t know where is comes from (in terms of patterns) or what the typical seasonal changes are. I can read about them but it is not the same as having lived through them, or having that ingrained sense of what is next without even thinking about it much.

This time of year in the NorthEast USA I would be moaning about the cold and the mud. But on the first sunny day – the kind where you only need a thick polar fleece and a hat, the kind where the first sping sun shines warm on the back of your neck- you would find me out in the yard doing my tour of the garden. What shape is the garden in? Will I have to do much raking this year? Did the Kale survive? Are the crocuses and daffodils peeking up ?? Not much will be happening yet but those first rays of warmth will make me feel hopeful.  I will go back inside and have a cup of tea and be willing to wait the weeks it will take for the plants to push up through the frozen ground.

The willows will be thinking about getting green in about a month. About that same time I will see the patch of dark purple and yellow crocus at the end of my driveway shining in the afternoon sun. They are closed on my morning tour of signs of spring but by afternoon they open and shine to welcome spring.

In Shanghai spring is already here. I am amazed by it. The forsythia’s yellow skirt flouncing in the breeze, the birds are singing, the sky was even blue today. Winters here are not particularly cold but they are VERY grey. We go weeks at a stretch with nothing but grey, grey, and more grey, interspersed with rain. Ugh. So when the sky is blue and the thermometer pushes close to 10 C I am ready to get out and enjoy it!

I find many plants are the same here. There are the forsythia, the pussy willows, the paperwhites. But many are new and strange and I watch them every day to see just what they will do. There is a bush that I pass every day on the way to the gym that has kept me guessing. In the fall it lost it’s leaves. Then in mid winter it got these fat buds on it and I could see white peeking through. I wasn’t sure if they had been faked out by a warm day and would now die on a frosty night. Or would they bloom in the winter the way the pansies do here? I waited and watched. They stayed looking like sad, wet pompoms for months. I was sure they were dead. Then today, in the afternoon sun, they started to open. Their shiny white faces are bouncing in the breeze and make me smile.

The other mystery of Shanghai is the wild animal population. I am used to deer, turkeys, squirrels, even raccoons and skunks. Here we seem to have none of those. We have cats and dogs and a few birds. In fact, when we arrived in late August there were so few birds I was really nervous. I kept thinking about all the pesticides people use in Asia and about the book silent spring. A Shanghainese friend told me it was more likely that there were no birds because if there were any they would be eaten by the locals. As fall rolled around more birds arrived. It was then that it occurred to me that it was just too damn hot in August and those smart birds had gone north for the summer!

For the winter we have had pigeons, doves and sparrows, even a few chickadee looking birds. There is a big guy, about the size of a blue jay, who comes and sits on my balcony railing and sings his heart out. I keep trying to get a picture of him but he is very shy. I have never seen a bird like him before. During our first weeks here we walked everywhere. On our walks we noticed a very rhythmic humming/chirping sound coming from some trees. It didn’t come from all the trees, but from quite a few. The sound was very electric, almost like the extended sound of a bug zapper going off when a big moth hits it. We kept looking in the trees. Was it a bird? Was it a bug? Was it a big bug zapper? It was so constant and so loud that, even though we could see nothing, we were convinced that it must be some kind of Chinese system to keeps bugs or birds out of the trees. Then one day I noticed that the sound would stop when I got close to the tree and start up again as I stepped back to the sidewalk. I know the government here keeps a careful eye on foreigners but even I thought that a sophisticated system that shuts off to avoid detection, spread out over the city and placed in the trees, was unlikely. We never did see anything in the trees but as the temperature dropped the sound stopped. The buzzing trees fell silent. Yesterday, along with the forsythia and the little white pom pom flowers the trees started to buzz! Not the resounding racket that we heard in August. Just the first tentative buzzes. I am determined this year to figure out what it is. I have even learned how to say “what is that?” in Chinese, which I think will greatly increase my chances of success :)

PS.  I saw this walking through a park just after I wrote this entry and I had to include it.  It reminds me  of scenes from Count Dracula or Vlad the Impaler!  Perhaps this is what keeps the birds out of Shanghai.

What was that food? Answers to 3.0 challenge

So this is the day you have all been waiting for!  The big reveal…

What is that strange thing she is eating in China???

First, I have to tell you that I loved all your guesses.  The meatball smuggling Sicilian definitely wins for creativity!!  And the food is not nearly as strange as others give me credit for.  Although I do have to confess that I never, ever would have tried it if a friend hadn’t explained it to me and assured me that it was good and safe to eat.  Your guesses even taught me something.  One guess was about a Mexican fruit called a ‘granada’.  I wasn’t sure if this entry was just a joke but I decided to check it out.  It turns out that there is a fruit called a granada and a close relative called a China granada which are both related to the pomegranate and both related to this mystery food.

Granada china: golden passion fruit or granadilla (Passiflora ligularis)
Sometimes incorrectly translated as “passion fruit” because it is related, the granada china does not taste much like a true passion fruit, although its unique flavor and consistency are much prized by aficionados, who call it “the caviar of fruits.” An egg-shaped fruit with a hard yellow-orange “shell” is cut open to reveal a soft, grayish pulp, which is eaten right out of the shell with a spoon. Despite the hard outer skin, it is more perishable than most other tropical fruit, and is generally not used in ice cream and other confections. Granada china can be tested for ripeness by shaking it for the sound of the ripe flesh moving inside.

This mystery food is the PASSION FRUIT.

Yes, really.  It is a flavor that is widely used in western food but I had never seen it in it’s natural state before.  The flavor is really good but super intense and sour like a sour patch kid.  The best way to eat it is to cut it open, dip a spoon in a little honey and use that spoon to scoop out the fruit and eat it up.

I guess it just goes to show that you never know what you will run into, and taking risks can have quite delicious rewards :D

Mystery Food Challenge 3.0

Ok, here’s the latest installment of “What is it and would you eat it??”  Also, “what do you do with it once you’ve figured out what it is??”

This week’s food is a little smaller than a clementine (or about the size of a squash ball for my sports fans).

It looks like a giant cousin to the puff balls we all found in the woods as kids.

It has a brown/greenish skin/shell which is VERY tough and must be cut carefully with a very sharp knife.

Inside the skin/shell is a layer of white pith.

Inside the pith layer is a yellow slimy center that looks like raw egg yolk.

Mixed in with the ‘egg yolk’ are clear/green seeds that look sort of like fish eggs and are about the size of a pomegranate seed and are crunchy in the same way too.

I have actually eaten this so I can tell you that it sort of tastes like a sour patch kid, except crunchy.

Scoop out the whole center and enjoy, right??

What do you think?

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